Paithani Sarees-Maharashtrian Speciality

The art of fine weaving and the complex processes of bleaching and dyeing and the arts of hand and loom embroidery were perfected by the people of India long before conditions in the textile industry were modernized. These crafts were mostly hereditary and the qualities required of a true artisan were apprenticeship, devotion to duty and co-operation. The knowledge of the arts and crafts was imparted from one generation to the next.

History of Paithanis-
References in ancient history indicate that an amazing variety of costumes made of cotton and silk fabrics were used in India. The Rig Veda mentions a golden woven fabric and the Greek records talk of gorgeous Paithani fabrics from the great ancient trading and industrial centres, Pratishan or Paithan in Maharashtra. In old times, the zari used in making Paithanis was drawn from pure gold. But today silver is substituted for gold thus making the Paithanis more affordable to many people. Every six months Naina creates at least 2-3 new designs and at any given time there are about 10 different designs available (four styles per colour). Fourteen weavers are exclusively working for Naina and she has nearly forty colours for her customers to choose from.

Origin of Paithanis-
Even today Maharashtra is the home of the most celebrated textile—the paithani, gold embroidered zari sari with its wonderful designs and woven borders. Even during the medieval period, the interaction between the Hindu and Muslim rulers gave rise to new styles. The Marathas extended their patronage to textile activities. Some centres became renowned for their textiles and the fabric frequently derived its name from the place of origin. For example, paithani came from Paithan, shahagadi from Shagad etc. The Peshwas in the 18th century had a special love for paithani textiles and it is believed that Madhavrao Peshwa even asked for the supply of asavali dupattas in red, green, saffron, pomegranate and pink colours.Human skills may have been replaced by machines. However, no machine-made fabric can compare with the hand-made beauty of the paithani sari by the master craftsmen of Maharashtra.

Naina Jhaveri of Swayam Siddha, Bombay, is one of the best known designers and an authority on paithani saris in Maharashtra.

USP of Paithanis-
The speciality of the paithani is its border and pallau. Earlier, just 2-3 colours were popular which were integrated in the sari in the dhup chaon pattern which, when translated, means light and shade. In 1990, Naina’s interest in the paithani sari turned into an obsession prompting her to do directly to the weavers in Paithan to create her own exclusive designs. Today Naina has nearly 200 designs, the largest selection of Paithani in Maharashtra.
Expense of Paithani-
The price tag ranges from Rs. 4,000 and can move up to Rs. 1,50,000. The paithani sari is an entirely handwoven item. Depending on the intricacy of the design, it takes anything from one month to a year to weave. The traditional paithani used to be a plain sari with a heavy zari border and ornamental pallav. But today paithanis with motifs are in vogue: stars, circles, peacocks, flowers and paisleys. The paithani borders and pallavs are heavily adorned with these motifs and the sari is given the name after the design on it. Tota-maina (parrot), bangdi-mor (peacock with round design), asavali (flower and vine), narli (coconut), are all descriptive of paithanis. For inspiration, the weavers turn to the myriad birds and flowers around them.
Credibility of Paithanis At least three generations can wear once a Paithani Saree if it is
preserved properly.

Naina’s innovations for a Paithani Sari include enlarging an 18 inch to 25 inch pallu into a 39 inch one and in heavier saris she provides 2-3 matching blouse pieces so that more than one member of the family can wear the sari.

Pattern of Weaving Paithani -
The basic weave of the Paithani Sari is simple. It is a tabby weave but more recently even the modern jacquard has been incorporated by Naina. The speciality lies in the design which is woven without the assistance of a mechanical contriance like a jala. Multiple spindles are used to produce the linear design. The border as well as the pallav carry creeper and floral motifs on a background of gold. Such saris are worn by brides. “A paithani is a must in a bride’s trousseau
today and the red-white version called the panetar is the wedding sari for the Gujarati community.”

The Paithani became very popular during the Maratha period. At that time the favourite motif was the asavali, a kind of flower and hence the saris were also known as asavali paithanis.
Way to weave Paithani Srees
Before weaving the sari the raw silk which is obtained from Bangalore is cleaned with caustic soda. Then it is dyed into the different colours as required. Sik threads are then separated by the women and then they are ready to be woven. The whole family is involved in the weaving of the sari.

Popularity of Paithanis has spread far and wide- Although the paithani sari is costly it has become a popular item in the marriage ceremonies of the rich and the not-so-rich. Besides
Paithan, the saris are woven in Yeola, known for the mango motif pallavs and in Pune, Nashik, and Malegaon in Maharashtra. Thus the paithani sari has played a significant role in weaving together the cultural fabric of Maharashtra.
Taking Care of Paithani Saree-
The paithani demands that utmost care be taken to preserve the fabric and its luster. The sari should not be kept in a cardboard box or plastic bags. Also, if possible, it should not be hung on a hanger. The best way is to keep it is wrapped in a soft muslin cloth. No perfume should be applied directly onto the sari, neither should menthol balls be packed with the paithani sari. The sari should be roll pressed and dry cleaned. There is no need to polish the zari often since it will weaken the sari.http://www.myindiaguide.com/